I found a box of old cassette tapes. Can you still play them?
Usually, yes. Tapes that have been sitting in a closet or garage for decades are often still perfectly playable, and even ones that look rough — warped cases, faded labels, mildew on the shell — can frequently be recovered. Don't throw anything out before asking.
How much does it cost to convert tapes to digital?
It depends on the format, how long each recording runs, and what condition things are in, so I quote each job individually instead of posting a rate card that won't fit your material. Quotes are free. Larger collections get bulk discounts — the more you send, the lower the per-item rate.
What is DAT?
DAT stands for Digital Audio Tape. It's a small cassette, roughly half the size of a normal one, used mostly between the late 80s and early 2000s for studio masters, live recordings and field work. If you have DAT tapes, they're worth prioritizing — the format ages badly and the machines that play it are increasingly rare.
How good will my transfer sound?
A transfer captures what's actually on the tape as faithfully as possible, but it can't add detail that was never recorded. If a tape has degraded with age, or was recorded on a deck that wasn't properly calibrated, there's a real limit to what can be brought back — digital touch-ups only go as far as the information I can extract. I'll tell you honestly what I think is achievable before you commit to anything.
What does audio restoration actually involve?
Mainly cleaning up hum, unwanted frequencies and the artefacts age leaves behind. I use noise reduction sparingly and on purpose — pushed hard, those tools tend to strip away more of the music than the noise they're removing was costing you. The goal is to get the most out of what's already there while keeping the original's character intact.
What's the difference between mixing and mastering?
Mixing is balancing the individual elements of a song against each other. If the original project files or a multitrack transfer exist, I work from those; where all that survives is a rough mix or tracks that were never cleanly separated, I use AI separation to pull stems back out of the source audio and rebalance from there — nothing gets added that wasn't in the recording, the separation just reaches what's already present. Mastering comes afterward and is the final step before a song is released. It uses a wider set of tools than restoration calls for, and the aim is making the mix hold together on every system it might be played on. It brings detail forward, adds punch where a track needs it, and involves noticeably more creative judgment than archival work does.
How do I get my files, and is storage included?
A download is included with every job. Delivery on physical media is an add-on, priced on the drive itself, so the cost varies with how much space your collection needs — I'll size it to your material and source it from a manufacturer I trust to hold up over time rather than whatever's cheapest. It's the option I'd recommend once your collection is digitized, since it's the best long-term home for the data and keeps it offline. Bear in mind raw transfers are large and file sizes add up quickly, so I can also make compressed copies alongside the full-quality versions.
What makes your DAT transfers different?
I keep a high-end 90s DAT machine in pristine condition, but the transfer doesn't rely on its digital output. I pull the data directly off the tape using a rig built for the purpose, which sidesteps the S/PDIF path a standard deck sends everything through. The practical difference is that you get the recording as it was written to the tape, rather than a version the deck has already interpreted on its way out.
Can I send you a hard drive or USB stick to copy onto?
No — I don't accept hard drives or USB flash drives from anyone, due to security concerns. CDs, DVDs, SD cards and camera memory cards are all fine to send, and I'm happy to work from any of those.
Can you transfer CDs, DVDs or memory cards?
Yes. CDs and DVDs both, including home-burned discs — those are worth doing sooner rather than later, since burned discs degrade a lot faster than pressed ones. SD cards and camera memory cards are fine too.
Can you scan the paperwork that came with my tapes?
Yes, and it's often worth doing. J-cards, liner notes, track sheets, session paperwork and handwritten labels carry context that's frequently as valuable as the audio itself. It's charged separately and isn't included with a transfer by default, so mention it when you ask for a quote.
Can you make artwork for my digitized music?
Yes — it's a premium add-on. I rebuild artwork in Photoshop from scans of your original packaging plus whatever information survives, then tag the files with proper metadata so everything displays correctly in Apple Music, iTunes or any other player. It has nothing to do with audio quality and everything to do with how it feels to actually use your collection. If I haven't already scanned your packaging, that scan is included at no extra cost.
My tape is snapped. Can you fix it?
Not right now. Splicing and repair is something I'm working toward offering reliably, but until I'm confident in the results I'd rather be upfront than take your money on a maybe. Hold on to the tape rather than throwing it out — it doesn't become less repairable sitting in a drawer, and I'd like to be able to help later.
What happens if my tape breaks while you're transferring it?
It's uncommon, but aging tape is fragile and occasionally a tape gives out during playback. If that happens there's often no way to recover what was on it, and that's a risk you're taking on when you send material in. I take every reasonable precaution, and you'll hear from me right away if anything goes wrong.
You don't list my format. Can you still help?
Possibly. For the right project I can arrange the equipment, as long as I'm confident it'll produce a result worth paying for. If it's genuinely outside what I do well I'll say so and point you toward services I've personally used and been happy with. Either way you'll get a straight answer.
Who can hear my recordings? How are they stored?
Nobody but me. Everything is kept in an isolated, air-gapped environment with no internet connection, and physical media is the delivery option I'd recommend precisely because it keeps your recordings offline end to end. Downloads are included as standard, with your files reachable only for as long as the handover takes. Nothing is shared, posted or used as an example without your explicit permission.
Do I have to mail my tapes, or can I drop them off?
Everything runs by mail right now, including for clients here in Hawaiʻi. Once your quote is agreed I'll send packing instructions so your tapes travel safely.
Who pays for shipping?
You do, in both directions — sending your material in and having it returned. I'll help you pick a sensible shipping method for what you're sending.
Do you work with people outside Hawaiʻi?
Yes. Because the service is mail-in, it works the same whether you're on Oʻahu, a neighbor island, or the mainland. Reach out either way.
Will I get my original tapes back?
Always. Your originals are logged when they arrive and shipped back to you when the work is finished. Nothing gets kept or discarded without your say-so.
Can we talk before I send anything?
Yes, and it's often the sensible first move. Consultations run one-on-one online, so we can go through your collection together, work out what's most at risk, and decide what's actually worth doing before anything gets packed up or paid for.
I have a lot of tapes and no idea where to start.
That's normal, and it's exactly what consultations are for. We can go through what you have, work out what's most at risk, and prioritize from there rather than trying to do everything at once.